Vale D. Maria Vinhas Do Sabor Douro Branco

The Douro Superior is the hottest, driest, most remote of the Douro's three sub-regions, and Quinta Vale D. Maria extended into it through a second property, Quinta Vale do Sabor, near the mouth of the Sabor river. Rabigato is one of the Douro's noblest whites and holds freshness in that heat; Viosinho brings floral balance; Arinto adds aromatics and body. Grapes are destemmed, gently pressed, the must settled cold in steel for 24 hours, then fermented and aged nine months in carefully selected French oak barrels at 10–14°C. The result is oak-inflected but not oaky — apricot and mango with a hazelnut edge from the wood, freshness intact. Winemaking team: Cristiano van Zeller, Manuel Soares, Joana Pinhão, and David Ferreira. 12%.

Food pairing: Goat cheese, matured or buttery cow's-milk cheese, eggplant stuffed with cheese and wild mushrooms, roast duck, bacalhau, and grilled white meats.