White

Bodegas GallegaPorta da Ria
Galicia, Spain · Rías Baixas · Albariño
Albariño is one of the few Spanish whites that commands a higher price — but the premium bottles are on a short list of names, and the regional tier underneath it sits much lower in the quality to affordability ratio. What Bodegas Gallega did, closing the difference in quality, is allowing time to develop the wine: for nine months, the wine aged on its lees, stirred, when most Albariño at this price is bottled by spring to sell for the summer and seasonal seafood. Tank space and patience are built into the expense, and they are what give weight to the consideration of when to bottle.
Rías Baixas is farmed in fragments. Generations of Galician inheritance split the land into parcels, called minifundio, measured in rows, so thousands of growers work plots smaller than a city block or, in some cases, a backyard; smaller batches of wine mean higher prices. A microclimate from Atlantic maritime influence — rain, cool air off the estuary–meets plentiful sunshine and high humidity, which generously increase acidity and fruit development. Don't assume Bodegas Gallega's Porta da Ria is meant only for shellfish. The lees weight makes it a roast chicken wine, which is a better Tuesday pairing.

