Niepoort Dry White Port

The category most people have never tried and most bars should stock. Niepoort makes theirs in the traditional style with a long skin maceration — occasionally with foot treading in lagares, which is genuinely unusual for a white port — fermenting close to dry before the grape brandy goes in, then at least three and a half years in small old oak casks. Golden-brown, with nuts and almond on the nose carrying through to a fresh, concentrated, spirity finish. Serve it well chilled as an aperitif, or long over ice with tonic and a twist of lemon — the Portuguese answer to a G&T.

Food pairing: Salted almonds and olives, jamón, aged sheep's cheese, or grilled octopus.