Niepoort Nat Cool Branco Vinho Verde 1L

Nat Cool Branco VInho Verde is vinified the old-fashioned way, with the last grams of sugar left to ferment in the bottle alongside the fine lees, malolactic included — so it arrives intentionally unclarified and cloudy, lemon-green, with yeasty aromas, citrus, peach, and herbs. Outstanding acidity, a delicate mousse of effervescence, and a saline close. Traditionally drunk from a ceramic malga cup.

Nat Cool is Dirk Niepoort's answer to a market that wanted fun, naturally made wine for everyday drinking — one-liter bottles, low alcohol, minimal sulfur, cool price. His stated rules begin: rule number one, there are no rules.

Food pairing: Portuguese petiscos — salt cod fritters, grilled sardines, garlicky shrimp — plus anything fried and any amount of shellfish.