Scotto Cellars V14 Chardonnay North Coast

The North Coast AVA is a wide net — Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino, Lake — but what unites it is fog and cool ocean air pushing inland through coastal gaps, which is precisely what lets Chardonnay hold its acidity in a warm state. Scotto Cellars' V|14 works that advantage rather than burying it under oak. Delicate citrus and red grapefruit lead, with just enough acidity to carry the wine through a long finish. A restrained, unfussy California Chardonnay for people who like the grape but not the butter.

Food pairing: Grilled fish, chicken piccata, shrimp salad, fresh chèvre, or a plate of raw oysters.