Stekar Goriska Brda Rebula

Štekar Goriška Brda Rebula features aromatic yellow fruit and spice, structurally firm and engaging without astringency or obtrusive tannin — a hard needle to thread in the orange category. Hand-harvested in late September, two weeks on the skins, then eight months in 2,000-liter acacia casks, bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Goriška Brda, on the Italian border, is one of the historic homes of skin-contact white wine, and Štekar has farmed organically here since 2006. Jure Štekar puts it plainly: no additives, no chemistry, no invasive technology — long macerations and spontaneous fermentations with indigenous yeasts, the way the local tradition ran before it was a category.

Food pairing: Roasted vegetables, herb-marinated pork or chicken, and aged or funky cheeses — plus prosciutto, and anything with saffron or turmeric.