Santini Marsala Sweet

Bottled by Cantine Intorcia in Marsala — a Sicilian family that has been at this since the 1930s. Matured twelve months in oak cask, 17% ABV, made to DOC standards in the traditional zone. Golden amber, with intense nutty aromas over caramel, vanilla, and toffee, then a lush velvety palate whose sweetness is kept upright by firm acidity. Most Marsala in American kitchens gets poured into a pan and never into a glass, which is a shame — this is a meditation wine as much as a cooking one.

Food pairing: Almond and ricotta pastries — cannoli, cassata, biscotti. Also aged pecorino, walnuts, and, yes, chicken or veal marsala.